Looking after your bike
Modern bikes give great value, and your bike shop will service your bike if you want it to. It can also advise you on how to keep your bike in good working order. You don’t need to be an expert, but it is good to know what can go wrong from time to time. Here’s a quick and easy guide to the parts of your bike and how to keep the whole machine working well for you.
Tyres
Are they well pumped up? Are they bald? Are the sidewalls cracked and damaged? Got a pump? All tyres should be inflated hard – they should barely give when you squeeze them.
Wheels
Do the wheels run true? Gripping the top of the wheel, can you wobble it from side to side – yes? –possible bearing damage inside. Are any of the spokes broken? If two or more spokes have gone, then more may be on the way out. Are any spokes slack? –Bad! Check the wheel for trueness (how straight they are).
Brakes
Are the pads worn? Do they rub the rim? Are they seized solid? Are they rubbing on the tyre? Do the pads bite on the rim almost as soon as you move the lever on the bars? Are the cables rusty and frayed, or moving smoothly and well oiled?
Headset
(Where the forks and bars swivel in the frame). Do the forks turn smoothly? When the front brake is put on, can the bike be rocked forward and backward, because the fork is rocking within the frame?
Chain
Is it rusty? Taking the chain at the front point of the chainring, (the cog by the pedals), can the chain be pulled nearly clear of the teeth? Yes? - worn chain. If the chain has rusted badly or has dry rust on it, it may have worn the sprockets down, too. Expensive to replace.
Chainwheel and sprockets
If teeth look like sharks’ fins the whole drivetrain will be much too worn. Derailleur chain and sprockets wear together, and if they are left to wear for too long, you’ll need to change the whole drivetrain – minimum £60.
Bottom bracket
(The fat bit of frame containing the axle, between the pedals). Grip the cranks and try to rock the axle up and down and side to side. Do they move sideways, maybe with a clicking noise? –bearing needs adjustment or replacement. Check that the cranks rotate smoothly.
Pedals
Do they spin smoothly? Are the ends battered? Do they rattle loose on their spindles? When you ride the bike you may feel a rolling sensation in the ankles caused by either bent pedal spindles or bent cranks. Pedal spindles can be replaced; steel cranks might be straightenable, (bike shop), bent alloy cranks should probably go in the skip – expensive. Riding with wonky pedals can cause damage to your ankles and knees. (Ankles and knees are really expensive to repair…)
Frame and forks
Look carefully at the tubes. Are there dents, creases or wrinkles in the paint which may show crash damage? Look down the bike from the front, to see if the frame twists between head tube and seat tube. Check that the forks both curve the same way (symmetrical), and not bent backward from a crash.
Handlebars
Are they bent? Rusty? Is everything attached to them firmly? Look at the stem – can you see the line marked on it which shows the limit you can set it at? The minimum insert mark? You have to leave enough stem inside the frame tube, to make it safe. Stand in front of the bike with your feet gripping the wheel. Try to turn the bars. Do they move easily? – Bad. Lots of resistance? – Good. Completely seized? – bad, and possibly rusted solid.
Racks, mudguards, etc
Check everything is bolted on firmly.
Saddle
Is it attached firmly? Grip it and try to rock it forward and back. Is it torn or worn? You can loosen the saddle off and move it forwards and back, and tilt it up and down, until it is comfortable for you.
Looking after your bike
Change rusty, sticky or frayed brake cables. Basic replacement cables are fine – run a little oil over them before installing . Make sure you get the right cable type. Cable outers need replacing if they are kinked or too rusty. Fit new brake bocks if the old ones are worn. Change the chain if it needs it (a bike shop will advise if you’re unsure), and then keep the new one oiled! Some modern ‘dry’ lubricants don’t attract dirt, though they cost more and are not as waterproof.
Toolkit, and basic maintenance
A basic toolkit should include: small or medium sized, good quality adjustable spanner, a set of Allen keys, small spanners- 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 13 and 14mm (assuming the bike has metric sizes), wire cutters, medium weight pliers and a chain tool.